Ranger Talk

I know, it’s not summer yet.  But it sure felt like it last Tuesday.  It was almost 80 degrees in Front Royal and the thought of spending the day anywhere but outside seemed absurd.  So, my boyfriend and I decided to explore one of Virginia’s many state parks - Sky Meadows.  I had no idea what to expect and didn’t think many employees would be around since it was January after all.  We drove about 30 minutes to the entrance, where as expected, no one was stationed to collect fees, but I was already prepared with the yearly pass I purchased in May.  We grabbed a trails map, parked the truck and decided to embark on a trail that would take us on a portion of the Appalachian Trail that neither of us had trekked before.  The beginning of our journey took us uphill on the Piedmont Overlook Trail through what appeared to be a cow pasture, but we stopped at the first overlook to take some pictures.

Our journey continued into the woods along a small portion of the North Ridge Trail and then up to a hilltop along the Ambassador Whitehouse Trail that overlooked the little sleepy town of Paris, VA.  As we had started our trek later in the afternoon, and had decided to take on about 4 miles, we didn’t spend much time taking in the views, but continued on to our AT portion of the hike.  Eventually we made our way back downhill along a pretty rocky and steep portion of the North Ridge Trail.  We crossed a little stream, which always makes my day.  I just love water!

The North Ridge Trail eventually led us back to the cow pasture and our truck parked in the visitor center parking lot.  Needless to say, the park has plenty more to explore, including the Snowden Interpretive Trail, which in name alone intrigues a park ranger.  I vowed to come back and hike more when the weather breaks, but what a great way to spend an unseasonably warm winter day in the Shenandoah Valley.

I love to read!  I used to have a book glued to my hands as a child.  I had no siblings and I lived in the country so I guess books were in many ways like friends.  Then I became a history major.  As you can probably imagine, that involves reading … a lot … like 3 books a week.  I loved it though because it took me to so many cool places.  Then the real world brought me to a 40+ hour work week, my metabolism required I punish myself to enjoy ice cream and increasing my social network via moving all over the country meant more people to have fun with.  That meant less time for reading (yeah, I never thought I’d miss my NYC commute, but at least the subway afforded nothing better than reading time).  Well, I’ve recently discovered two things:  1)  an easy 3 mph gait on the treadmill allows me to burn calories and read a good history text and 2)  the economy has forced frugality in my household and lo and behold my boyfriend can sit still for more than 15 minutes if given the proper story line to follow.  That means I read a book this week … yeah, one whole book, not just a chapter.  

Last April I attended the NCPH conference in Milwaukee, WI and sending me into a bookstore is like sending … well, me into a candy store.  On the last day of the conference, the various publishing companies that had dragged hundreds of copes of their clients works with them didn’t want to pack them up and take them home, so for $3 a piece, I bought about a dozen books.  I hadn’t considered the ramifications of this until I got to the airport and nervously set my baggage, already costing me $25 to check, on the scale to ensure that it wasn’t more than 50 pounds.  To my delight, and my pocketbook’s, it weighed in at 49 pounds.  Those books flew back to Las Vegas, then traveled with me back to Beatty, NV only to be packed into boxes to drive from Beatty to Front Royal, VA.  Then they were unpacked, placed on a bookshelf, repacked, unpacked and once again placed on a shelf.  Mistreatment indeed!

This past week I read Hot Time in the Old Town:  The Great Heat Wave of 1896 and the Making of Theodore Roosevelt by Edward P. Kohn (hardcover available on Amazon for $11.18, paperback for $6.80 and Kindle for $9.34).  I was drawn to it because it was based in NYC (someplace I’d lived and would recognize), it involved Theodore Roosevelt (whom I consider one of our greatest Presidents, reformer and conservationists), and it was an event I knew absolutely nothing about.  I was not disappointed.  This work follows William Jennings Bryan’s campaign train from Lincoln, NE as it travels east to NYC while simultaneously tracking the ten days of extreme heat that would take the life of over 1500 citizens of NYC and how Roosevelt’s progressive/reformist politics attempt to ease the suffering of the cities poor and destitute.  I was appalled at some of the things I read and blown away by the statistics.  It was fun to read and even more fun to read about something completely new to me.  I told my boyfriend that night as we watched Jeopardy and he kept looking at me and saying “How do you know that?” that the best advice I’ve ever gotten is to just keep learning.  It certainly is a favorite pastime.

I just finished reading David McCullough’s 1776.  I love his writing.  Historic but easy to follow and the older I get, the more I travel and the more I learn, the more fun it gets.  I used to read all these books when I was a kid and sure, I absorbed names and dates and sometimes faces, but I could never grasp the scene.  Then, I made a trip one August week back in 2000 to New Market, VA and it all seemed to come together.  This was the first time I really connected with a place and it was the battlefield at New Market where the VMI cadets played an iconic role in this last major Confederate victory in May of 1864.  I fell in love with the story and I knew then and there that this place held a special place in my heart.  The difference was, I did my research after I was there.  A few years later, when I embarked upon my pursuit of an MA, I decided my thesis would somehow be wound around this battle, this place.  It forced me to return and to subsequently visit VMI in Lexington and the VA Historical Society in Richmond.  It was a rewarding research trip that was made more fun by the fact that each night, my mom (who wouldn’t let her “little girl” make such a journey alone) and I watched as the Boston Red Sox made the infamous comeback in the AL Championship against the Yankees.  At any rate, the product that came from my hard work was one of the best things I’ve ever accomplished.  What does this have to do with 1776?  Well, in 2010 I moved to New Market while working at Shenandoah National Park.  Irony, coincidence, fate (I did meet the love of my life that summer) … who knows, but I’ve come to appreciate the relevance of being in a place.  It happened again while I worked at Petersburg … reading about the siege and the Crater all made more sense when I could see it before me.  Then it started happening all the time … Cold Harbor, Manassas, Fredericksburg and not just Civil War battlefields, but everywhere I went, I started connecting dots.  Last week, as I read about Washington’s troop movements through New York City and New Jersey I envisioned these places, albeit I saw them through the lens of today.  I smiled as I read Fort Lee, Throgs Neck, Tappan Zee … I knew them all.  How many commuters pass these everyday and have no idea the relevance of place?  I encourage everyone to pick up a book about a place you already think you know and see it unfold before you … a new perspective, a different map.

The holidays are over, my least two favorite months are upon us (although as I write this it’s about 60 degrees out) and I have felt the need to blog again.  I’ve been away from the social media since I finished up my season working as a Park Ranger at Shenandoah National Park, but now I’m itching to communicate about my love of history and nature again.  My boyfriend is not a movie enthusiast.  He finds it much too difficult to sit for a long period of time.  I find that to be true of myself as well, but if the material is engaging, I can endure anything, even movies that are 2 hours and 45 minutes long.  We did just that on Tuesday afternoon.  I don’t recall even seeing a trailer/commercial for Django Unchained, but when I looked up what was playing locally (actually looking for where I could see Promised Land) I saw this film starring Jamie Foxx, Leonardo DiCaprio, Christoph Waltz and Samuel Jackson.  Pretty hard line-up to pass on, and in order to save money, I was all about the 2:45 matinee.  I read the plot ahead of time, which was another reason I thought this would be interesting.  Pre-Civil War South, a slave, Django (Foxx), is purchased (and freed) by a German-born bounty hunter, Dr. King Schultz (Waltz) after assisting Schultz in finding three of his bounties.  In return, Schultz agrees to help Django find his long-lost bride, played by Kerry Washington (from Scandal).  You can read the plot for yourself on Moviefone, but at any rate, I missed the fact that Quentin Tarantino was the director.  As the credits rolled at the beginning of the film, I knew I was in for exaggeration and bloodshed (aka gore).  Well, I was right, however, if you haven’t seen this film, and you’re an avid study of the Civil War, as I am, you should.  Does it go overboard?  Yes.  Is there a massive amount of unwarranted violence?  Yes.  However, I also recently saw Lincoln, which I thought was an interesting title given the fact that the basis of the film was the 13th amendment, outlawing slavery.  Taking this into consideration, along with the 150th anniversary of the Civil War, the fact that the Emancipation Proclamation took effect on January 1, 1863 and again, my personal interest, I found Django Unchained to at least bring to light a very touchy area of study.  I took two African history courses in college, one of which inspired me to write a research paper about the African slave trade in the Atlantic.  All of these things were bouncing around in my mind as I sat in the theater, turning my head on a few occasions as I cringed at the violence on the screen.  Too much violence?  Maybe, but how many times have we seen the horrid images of scarring from slave master cruelty.  Were all slaves beaten and to such an extent?  No, but Tarantino brings to the forefront other cruel acts that slaves faced during their lives … various forms of torture, iron collars, solitary confinement, branding.  The fighting that takes place at Candyland (the plantation owned by DiCaprio’s character) is not something that can historically be linked to slave culture in America, but has been the subject of other popular culture.  I’m not trying to refute, deny, defend or in any other way put any claim to historical accuracy to this film, I just found it intriguing enough to put my thoughts on paper.  In these times when we are all concerned about the violence in our nation, on our television and in our day-to-day lives, let’s not lose sight of what we’ve left behind.  Bounty hunters, slavery, hangings, lynching … are today’s “bad guys” any worse than the glorified outlaws of yesteryear?  Thoughts to ponder.

I remember being in school (K-12 and college) and waking up Friday morning knowing that the weekend was only hours away.  I grew up in a house where my Mom was a homemaker (and trust me, she worked 7 days a week) and my Dad frequently traveled, often leaving Monday morning and returning Friday afternoon.  According to my baby book, my first sentence was “Daddy go away.”  Friday evening was a night out for my family and we used to each get a turn picking where we wanted to eat dinner.  Inevitably I picked Ponderosa because I loved the idea of making my own sundae at the end of the meal.  This was not my parent’s ideal choice, but to be fair, they let me have my way.  In college, the weekend meant going to the game, playing intramural softball, making some money waiting tables and of course, the occasional party or bar.  Then I entered the “real world.”  My weekends are non-traditional these days and I call Monday “my Friday.”  It used to bother me, knowing I couldn’t attend festivals, concerts and a myriad of other events that take place on Saturday and Sunday, but I’ve learned to embrace it.  I can schedule appointments, go to the bank, pay bills and avoid weekend shoppers without taking time off from work.  The best part is that my boyfriend and I share one day off.  How can this be the best part?  What a special day it is and we cherish it.

Like my parents, my boyfriend and I alternate choosing the day’s activities.  It was my turn this week.  I found myself in a conundrum as I started to plan.  A hiking group that I had joined in the winter of 2010/11 was doing a hike in George Washington National Forest from Veach Gap to Elizabeth Furnace, a place I hadn’t explored yet.  Now, my boyfriend and I both love the outdoors and this normally wouldn’t be an issue, but this particular hiking group consists mostly of retired people.  It’s pretty typical for me to associate with older people as I’ve always been pretty reserved and grew up among my parent’s friends.  I had reservations about asking him to tag along, assuming that the speed and frequent breaks would make him crazy.  I broached the subject over dinner Monday night and he agreed to come along since it was a new place for him as well and was a 7.7 miler.  I made him promise that if he hated it, he would never do it again just to appease me.  We got up Tuesday morning and after getting our packs together, headed to our normal coffee spot, Daily Grind.  Pumpkin Pie Latte in hand, we headed to the forest and met the rest of the group at Veach Gap.  Only six of us today, perhaps the typical crowd being deterred by the length and 1200’ climb.  I introduced everyone to my boyfriend and off we went.

The other reason I was excited about the prospect of hiking in this particular area was my interest in fire ecology.  Earlier this summer, about 2000 acres or so burned in this area, a fire sparked by a lightning strike.  The importance of fire in a forest is something I studied extensively last summer in preparing for a new campfire program.  It was quite evident that the fire was low to the ground, thereby allowing the trail to become a natural fire break.  We also saw evidence of what we assumed to be bull dozer tracks where they had gone in to create fire lines.  The trees were all burnt on one side, green on the other. 

But the forest comes back quickly, and lots of new, green growth blanketed the forest floor. 

We also found a ground nest of wasps that looked like it had been recently disturbed, probably by a bear.  I think Winnie the Pooh was around looking for his pot of honey.  The wasps didn’t seem interested in us, and no one indicated that they were allergic, but what a dangerous combination that could have been.  We later came across some firefighting gear that looked like it had been forgotten and/or destroyed by the fire.  As we continued to ascend, it became noticeable that the fire was burning quite hot in some areas.  We stopped at a spot that had a great view of the Shenandoah River for lunch. 

Just a ways down the trail, we came upon two other wonderful overlooks.  We also saw some elaborate campsites where people had not only built fire rings, but used the rocks to create chairs and even an entryway at one location.  It was neat to see, and made a deep impression on me as this is not allowed at a National Park.  It seems that the Forest Service is a little more lenient on their views of keeping nature natural.  Our descent was steep and quite rocky in some areas and concluded with a stream crossing.

I hung back with my friend Maureen during the hike, and had noticed right from the start that my boyfriend was getting on famously with the other men in the group.  They kept a fair distance ahead of us most of the time, stopping to let us catch up.  Even though the hike probably would have taken him and me less than 4 hours, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that he thoroughly enjoyed himself.  I hope that he had enough fun to go again in a month!

After going to the gym and taking showers, our “date” continued at Outback Steakhouse in Winchester.  We are big proponents of going to locally owned restaurants, but my choice was determined upon the other plans I had and time.  We had discussed two movies that we each wanted to see and I was hoping to make that our final activity of the day.  Based on the time of the movies, I opted for Outback because it was in the same plaza as Alamo Drafthouse.  As chains go, Outback probably is one of my favorites.  I had a Forbidden Fruit Tini to start, followed by a blackberry sangria with dinner.  I usually let my boyfriend choose the appetizer and he opted for spinach & artichoke dip.  We both chose wood-fired filets with sautéed mushrooms for dinner and I had a baked sweet potato and green beans with mine, while he chose sweet potato fries and asparagus.  The food and service were wonderful and the timing couldn’t have been better.  We paid the bill and made our way across the parking lot to see “Trouble with the Curve.” 

First things first.  My boyfriend doesn’t sit still well and therefore movies are not usually in the plans, but he is a Clint Eastwood fan as well as a big Justin Timberlake fan.  Up to this point, he had not seen a JT movie and since we both love baseball, I thought everyone would be happy.  I don’t want to give away the plot, but the movie basically revolves around a washed up former pitcher (JT), an aging scout (Clint) and his overly ambitious lawyer daughter (Amy Adams).  I enjoyed it from both the baseball angle and the fact that it was a “chick-flick.”  I know he enjoyed it too, so that made me happy.  The other neat thing about this movie theater is that it’s a restaurant.  I had checked out the menu ahead of time, and we are conscious about what we eat, so bar food didn’t sound appealing to me.  However, we were interested in having a drink and since it’s a “drafthouse” it does have lots of options.  Needless to say, it was a great day overall and I look forward to next Tuesday!

I’ve been remiss in my blogging for the last couple of months.  There are a variety of excuses I could relay, but the truth is, I’ve been busy.  Not a bad thing, but for those of you that actually read this, I’ve probably left you out of some neat experiences.  So, a new season, a fresh start.  On that note, Autumn officially begins today.  I LOVE Autumn … I just don’t like what comes after.  I’ve already made an apple crisp and indulged in the ultimate … Starbuck’s Pumpkin Spice Latte.  There is something about the scents and flavors of this time of year that just makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.  I started Tuesday with exactly that thought in mind.

Since my boyfriend and I currently share one day off together, we’ve made it a point to spend that day together.  Each week we alternate who picks the day’s activities, and after a week plus of gorgeous weather, he was quite agitated to awaken Tuesday morning to gray skies and monsoon like rains.  I told him not to be discouraged, I was excited to see what he had planned (I begged him to keep it a surprise) and that the temperatures were going to be in the lower 70s so a rain coat and waterproof boots would take care of any outdoor activities.  After the purchase of a Pumpkin PIE Latte (the version offered at our local coffee shop), we jumped in his truck for our adventure.  We hopped on I-66 and then south on I-81 to Strasburg.  I pondered … a quaint little town in the Shenandoah Valley just begging to be explored by those passing through.  We pulled into Hupp’s Hill, a small Civil War museum that had been closed in the not so distant past, the story I heard anyway, after the main philanthropist of the site passed away and his heirs felt no desire to use their inheritance to preserve the history of their native land.  We were the only ones there, but the docent at the museum greeted us warmly and informed us of our options.  For $5 per person we could look at the exhibits and watch a film but for free (an option those with a limited budget are always eager to hear about) we could walk the interpretive trail outside.  Aha … raingear comes in handy already.  The trail winds its way through the property and provided not only information on the Civil War history but the geologic history and its role in the fighting that took place in the area.  The battle of Cedar Creek is probably the most famous engagement that took place in the vicinity, although in both 1862 during Jackson’s Valley Campaign and in 1864 during the waning months of the war, this area saw a massive amount of troop movement and battles.  The karst topography of the area provided natural sinkholes and caves that would provide shelter and unwavering defensive positions for troops.  In the distance loomed Signal Knob, the northern terminus of Massanutten Mountain and a key factor in signaling troop movements up and down the Valley.  The walk was easy and pleasant.  I truly appreciated that he would bring me here, as he’s not the Civil War buff I am.  As I rambled off various tidbits of information at every stop, he would just smile and shake his head.  Don’t worry … I got the chance to do so later.

http://www.cedarcreekbattlefield.org/visithh.html

Our next stop was down the Valley Pike (modern day Route 11) just south of Mt. Jackson at Meems Bottom Covered Bridge. 

This bridge spans the North Fork of the Shenandoah River and has been rebuilt a number of times, including most recently after some Halloween shenanigans in 1976.  Knowing that, all I could envision was the Headless Horsemen riding through (the corn maze alongside the road probably contributed to that).  We walked down to the edge of the river to take some pictures.

We noticed some fresh water clam shells on the banks, a mollusc I’ve never had the pleasure of finding alive.  After exploring the water, we went back to the road for some more photo ops and then drove through on our way to another (impromptu) stop.  This picturesque setting left me yearning for more and I mentioned a covered bridge showing up on future Tuesday itinerary.

http://coveredbridges.pwnet.org/Meems_Bottom/Meems_Bottom.php

The Route 11 potato chip factory is located in a small industrial park near Shenandoah Caverns and just off I-81 at exit 269.  I grew up near US Route 11 and then subsequently lived right on it in my previous two summers working at Shenandoah National Park.  I’d grown up my whole life listening to my dad talk about family trips to Mississippi to see his grandparents.  Since these trips were in the 1950s, I-81 was not an option and US Route 11 was the highway taken.  When I lived in New Market, my father would often want to take Route 11 instead of the interstate, reminiscing about how he’d probably eaten at some of the mom & pop places along the way.  I guess in some silly way, eating potato chips made on (or in this case near) Route 11 makes me feel like I’m home.  This small plant ships to retailers around the country, but production is limited.  They happened to be frying when we stopped.  One of the employees gave us a brief introduction to the frying process and then we watched as a batch of new potatoes was fried to golden perfection and then seasoned and packaged, a fresh batch of Dill Pickle ready for shipping.  We’re not big potato chip eaters, but we are about buying local.  I watched my boyfriend pick up a bag of Sweet Potato chips, but the thought of a nice dinner must have curbed the craving and we passed on any purchases.  I so noted the move for a future potential stocking stuffer.  The Route 11 chips have been a gift in the past enjoyed by all recipients, young and old.

http://www.rt11.com/

After leaving the factory, we jumped back on the interstate to take the quick route (we’d followed Route 11 from Strasburg) back to Toms Brook.  We had passed a store before that I knew had enticed the hunter in the truck.  We pulled into the parking lot and I knew that this was the stop where I would smile and shake my head.  You know the move I’m talking about … the I’m lost but I’m glad you’re happy look.  Well, that’s me when it comes to anything hunting related.  He drooled over bows that he can’t afford right now, talked with an employee about an archery league and I again saw that excitement of the thought of opening day appear on his face.  After seeing that venison was being sold at Wegmans for $32.99 for 12oz., I too looked forward to him coming home with a kill or two this fall. 

After spending the afternoon out and about in the Valley, we headed back to Front Royal to change out of muddy boots and then headed off to the other side of the Blue Ridge to Flint Hill.  There I found myself treated to an outstanding dinner at Griffin Tavern.  It gives the allure of fine dining without being ostentatious and provides a pub like atmosphere in the back for those interested in a more casual atmosphere.  Although I haven’t partaken, I know that they have a trivia night, which is always a good time with a group of friends.  We were seated in one of the front dining rooms and quickly greeted by a young lady that was very pleasant and I suspect kind of bored considering it was Tuesday, but that may have led to what I felt was a very rushed experience for such an establishment.  I always have a hard time deciding what adult beverage I’m interested in and in this case I was considering wine but didn’t know what I was having for dinner yet.  Despite telling her I needed more time, I feel like I was given all of 30 seconds before she approached me a second time.  At any rate, he opted to have a bowl of their soup de jour, white beans, Italian sausage and butternut squash, as an appetizer.  I went with the small house salad served with shallot vinaigrette since I read that all the salad dressings were homemade.  I also did finally order a Sauvignon Blanc to drink.   We both decided to have one of the specials, a blackened Mahi-Mahi served with sautéed spinach, black bean & corn salsa and jasmine rice, for our main dish.  The food was delicious, but yet again I felt rushed.  I would have preferred more time between appetizer and meal and the server offered dessert when I was only half way done with dinner.  These things are noticed by me because I’ve spent my fair share of time waiting tables, and since these Tuesday’s are special to me, I want to relax and take my time.  Truth be told, she would have gotten another round of drinks out of us, in turn receiving a bigger tip, but instead we enjoyed our aperitif at home.

http://www.griffintavern.com/

What adventure awaits next week is up to me.  I have some ideas, but we’ll keep it a secret.

Chances are if my mom and dad are coming to visit, there will be some sort of history dorkiness going on.  When my dad called and said he had a meeting in Stafford, VA on my day off, I said, hey, that’s really close to Fredericksburg and we’ve never been there, what do you say?  We actually opted to spend the night there on Tuesday night, hoping to provide ample opportunity to explore the battlefields, but it still wasn’t enough time.  We couldn’t leave Front Royal until about 12:30 given the fact that I had enrolled in a cake decorating class for the four Tuesday mornings of June, so upon arriving in the Fredericksburg area, we began our journey at the VC.

Due to lack of time, we opted out of the Ranger Guided programs and decided instead for self exploration.  What a place!  I’ve read the battle accounts, I’ve seen Gods and Generals, but to stand at the bottom and look up Marye’s Heights gives you an entirely new perspective.  It’s no wonder so many lives were lost and the current prescence of a National Cemetery brings the human toll to vivid realization.

Due to our arrival in the area in mid-afternoon, we only got the cahnce to walk the ground at Chatham, but what a view!

After spending the night in town, we started the next morning at Chancellorsville.

As a Civil War buff and after all my research compilation at VMI during the writing of my thesis on the Battle of New Market, I’d be lying if I didn’t admit an interest in Stonewall Jackson.  I was there, wanting to see where he’d been shot.  And, while I’m not one to speculate on the outcome of the war based upon his demise, I did feel a connection to the place.

I thought a lot about that fateful night, the plans that Jackson and Lee had made, and yes, that fateful last encounter between the two men.

Our visit brought back memories of my summer doing interp at Petersburg National Battlefield.  Gen. Gouverneur Warren was another individual I became acquianted with in my studies.  His cautiousness, nothing like McClellenan in my opinnion, got him a bad rap in the Union army and it all started right here.  His headquarters during the Battle of the Wilderness was at Ellwood, the same place Jackson’s arm had been buried a year before.

I also became more aware of the hell that was the Battle of the Wilderness.  Fighting in the woods, smoke all around, hand to hand combat, laying there injured and unable to move while the woods are on fire all around you.  How awful!  

We ran out of time to get to Spotsylvania or Guinea Station, so I’ll have to make the trek back over there to finish my tour.  However, it was a memorable trip, made more so of course by spending the time with my parents.

There are so many that are lacking in interest about the Civil War, but this is an important time, during this 150th commemoration, and even if you just go to one battlefield, I encourage you to tackle this heart wrenching and integral part of the American fabric.  I would like to think you’d at least walk away with a terrific appreciation for the hardships endured for a belief in a cause.  It may be hard to fathom for many today, but think about what means the most to you, and how hard you would fight to preserve it.

I’m proud to wear the green and grey of the National Park Service.  I didn’t understand when I embarked upon this journey why people referred to it as a family.  How could thousands of people spread out over 50 states plus the territories in 397 NPS units possibly be a close family?  And now, two years and six seasons later, I fully understand.  I still keep in touch with co-workers from the Statue of Liberty.  In 2008, while manning a visitor contact station at Petersburg National Battlefield, in walked a former co-worker from the Statue.  He’d just taken a position in Richmond at the Maggie Walker Historic Site.  I ran into a former co-worker from Petersburg at an NCPH conference in 2011 in Pensacola.  Some of us follow each other on Twitter and/or Facebook.  In 2010, my first summer at Shenandoah, I met a Student Conservation Intern who was working for eight weeks as the volunteer at Rapidan Camp, President Hoover’s retreat here within the park.  We took a day trip to DC one hot July day that year and now, he’s graduated and working his first seasonal at Pipe Springs National Monument in Arizona, with two of my former co-workers from my most recent duty station, Death Valley.  What a small world!  The staff here at Shenandoah really is my family after now starting my third summer here.  I’ve made amazing friends and had so many great times.  I truly felt like I was coming home and it has been a reunion in many ways.  Another Death Valley co-worker is now at Yellowstone.  She became a very good friend during our time together.  I recently talked to a family here at Shenandoah that was traveling to Yellowstone.  I sent a message to her through them.  She got it and it made her day!!  Two of my fellow rangers at Death Valley are now at Mt. Rainier.  And that, that’s what really got me thinking.

This month our flag has flown at half staff on more than one occasion in honor of more than one NPS employee.  This last week it’s flown for Nick Hall, a climbing ranger at Mt. Rainier who fell to his death while trying to save hikers that had gotten into trouble.  Only 34 years old, he died doing what he loved.  They still haven’t been able to recover his body.  Earlier this month, we lowered it for two firefighters that were out West battling what have become massive, dangerous and highly uncontrolled wildfires.  These guys and gals put there lives on the line to save resources, both natural and cultural, as well as homes and towns.  And they come from all over.  I remember one of my Statue co-workers heading out to wildfires in the west in 2006 and was gone for weeks.  Co-workers here have been in the George Washington National Forest and Great Dismal Swamp in my seasons.  And now, they are coming here.  As we battle a fire on Neighbor Mt., crews have come from US Fish & Wildlife, Cape Cod and a crew is on their way from Florida.  Why did Shenandoah lower the flag for a ranger most of us probably didn’t know from Mt. Rainier, in Washington state?  Why did we lower it for firefighters that perished 2000 miles away?  Why are we traveling to Colorado, why are Massachusetts and Florida coming here?  Because, it is a family.  And what a family it is.

Day 2 (Wednesday June 27)

Day 3 from US 340 (Thursday June 28)

Day 3 from Stony Man Overlook (Thursday June 28)

Day 4 from Pass Mt. Overlook (Friday June 29)

Hiking … I love hiking!  I went on my longest solo hike last week.  It encompassed a waterfall and almost 2000’ feet in elevation change.  It was almost 10 miles in length.  And … it was awesome!!  I took advantage of my easy access to Shenandoah National Park and parked at Mathews Arm Campground.  I used the Traces Trail to access the Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  I saw some beautiful Wild Columbine blooming along the trail.

Pretty soon, I approached the 29’ initial cascade.  I saw a lady enjoying her brunch sitting on the rocks, and she insisted I stay, that it was the best view.  I tell you, it wasn’t bad!

The morning started off cloudy and cool, but as the day went on, the weather was perfect for hiking.  The sun came out and it warmed up just enough.  After moving on from the first cascade, I continued down (literally) to the overlook to the highest waterfall in the park, 93’.  

It was too bad that I couldn’t play in the water, but I enjoyed taking in the views. Virginia is sure different from Death Valley!

As I continued on down into the hollow, I wondered how long I would be descending, knowing full well that at some point I had to go back up.  After departing from the Tuscarora Trail (which goes up into Pennsylvania) I found a wonderful place for lunch.  I got to sit on the rocks and stick my feet in the water while watching some swallowtails sipping the water in a puddle.

I followed the stream pretty much all the way along the hike.  At one point, it was clearly evident that a fallen tree was, in fact, the trail.  

As the trail continued, I crossed the stream many times.  I saw lots of wildlife, including a bear that clearly saw me first, as he only attracted my attention in his haste to get away.  My eye did spy a juvenile praying mantis and that was actually cooler than the bear.

By the way, this was on the ascent, so I was happy to stop and watch him for awhile.  My trip took me along the Heiskell Hollow trail as I made my final approach back to the campground and my reward of a caramel flavored yogurt (limited time only Dannon flavor).  It took me six hours to hike this 9.5-mile loop.  I was happy with the time I made and excited to have finally, after having already worked at the park for two summers, seen the highest waterfall.  Hopefully I’ll get to enjoy some more of these longer treks in the North District this summer!

I always think I’m going to have time for a million things and then before I blink, my weekend is over.  I’m lucky to have so many options right in my backyard.  I ventured  just a few miles down the road a few days ago to check out Shenandoah River State Park in Bentonville, VA.  I somehow spent $66 on a VA State Parks Annual Pass that I’m not quite sure how I’m going to get my money’s worth out of, but it sounded like a good idea at the time.  Hopefully it will force me to check out some other great places because VA has one of the best state park systems in the country.  Many of them preserve beautiful lake and river shores or are nestled within the various chains of the Appalachian Mountains.  This one, as the name implies, lies on the banks of the famous Shenandoah River.  This fairly calm, meandering stream shows its age in its path.  Just take a look at a map and you’ll see how many times it bends back and forth as its two forks lap against the Blue Ridge and Massanutten Mountains.  Its gentleness, however, is what lends to its appeal.  Front Royal, VA is known as the canoe capital of Virginia and a variety of companies provide the novice, such as myself, the opportunity to take an adventure on the river by canoe, kayak or tubing. It’s been awhile since I’ve done this, although it’s on the list for this summer, but about 10 years ago I took a tubing trip and it was one of best experiences ever.  At any rate, Shenandoah River State Park has river access in addition to hiking and biking trails of varying lengths and difficulties, picnic facilities, campgrounds and cabins for rent.  Now, don’t get me wrong, I love Shenandoah National Park, but, if you’re looking for a lazy day hanging out by the water, head 9 miles south on US-340 from the Front Royal Entrance station on Skyline Drive and get your fill.  Take in the sights and the sounds, bring your kayak and go rolling on the river.

(this photo was found at www.freeamazingimages.com)

It’s been awhile since I’ve written a blog post.  Actually, it’s been another cross country journey since I’ve written.  But, during that journey, I had the opportunity to do two wonderful things at one time.  I spent a week with my dad and we fulfilled a dream together.  Funny how a place gets stuck in your head.  My father flips between the same basic channels every evening, and one of those is TCM.  I swear every time I’m there when the channel gets flipped, he says “I’ve seen this one.”  I always respond with “Dad, you’ve seen them all.”  On more than one occasion these old Western (and even modern Western) movies include a scene in Judge Isaac Parker’s courtroom in Fort Smith, AR.  Ok, I’m admitting it, I too have an iconic image in mind.  It’s the scene in the well acclaimed mini-series “Lonesome Dove” when Woodrow stops to see the hanging of the infamous Blue Duck.  Blue Duck is sitting in a jail cell awaiting his turn at the gallows.

Blue Duck: You Rangers! I ‘spect I’ll kill a passel of you yet. 

Woodrow Call: I doubt it; not unless you can sprout wings ‘n’ fly through the hangman’s noose 

Blue Duck: I can fly - an old woman taught me - and if you care to wait, you’ll see me 

Woodrow Call: I’ll wait. I give you my word on it 

He does wait, and Blue Duck jumps out the window.  Woodrow walks up to the body.

Woodrow Call: Turns out that old woman didn’t teach you how to fly after all.

Well, for my dad, that is an iconic scene, but not his favorite.  His is from the 1969 John Wayne classic “True Grit.”

Ned Pepper: What’s your intention? Do you think one on four is a dogfall? 
Rooster Cogburn: I mean to kill you in one minute, Ned. Or see you hanged in Fort Smith at Judge Parker’s convenience. Which’ll it be? 
Ned Pepper: I call that bold talk for a one-eyed fat man. 
Rooster Cogburn: Fill your hands, you son of a bitch! 

What’s my point?  A dad and his daughter, on a cross country journey.  This is the man that introduced me to National Parks.  This is the man that only four days earlier had turned 62 and was just itching to get his hands on a Senior Pass.  This is the man that took a week’s worth of vacation to haul me and my crap 2000+ miles so that I could take yet another temporary job.  This is the man that taught me to love those brown signs along the side of the highway, and let me tell you, I-40 has a lot of them.  We wanted to stop at all of them.  I had only been to one or two of the sites we passed so near (my dad had been to handful), I had applied to most of them, but as we approached Fort Smith, we decided we had a few hours to delve into one of them.

We parked our rig on a side street, stopped a local sports bar for some lunch and then walked over to Judge Parker’s courthouse.  While that was the fascination that led to the stop, family heritage could not be ignored.  Our family has some Native blood, and although we’re not 100% sure if it’s Cherokee or Choctaw, both tribes passed through during their forced removal from their homelands.  We immersed ourselves in the history of this “Western outpost” for as long as we could.  It was a fascinating place where the term “Wild West” takes on a whole new image.  It dates back to the time of Andrew Jackson and has seen parts of so many conflicts in this nation’s history.  We could have stayed all day, but the fact that our hotel was still a few hours down the road meant we had to mosey on along.  It was well worth it for so many reasons:  the purchase of a Senior Pass, another Passport Cancellation, the ever sought addition to life-long learning, and most importantly, the chance to bond with my dad.

            The NCPH/OAH conference brought to light a subject near to my heart this afternoon – history in the NPS.  The panel consisted of Marla Miller, Gary Nash, David Thelen and Anne Mitchell Whisnant.  On the docket was the discussion of their report on how the NPS stacks up in the history department.  I have to admit, I haven’t read the report.  And, as a detriment to my profession, I didn’t even know it was something that was being analyzed.  In considering this, however, I realize that my failure in having even heard of the study speaks directly to the findings.  As it turns out, a panel of historians gave the NPS a mediocre grade when it comes to their interpretation of history, and I’m not surprised.  I had found it odd, in my five seasons as an interpreter, at four different parks, that there had been a clear delineation between interpretation and history.  But, how could you have one without the other?  Yes, the material was there for me to research as I prepared my programs, but how was it that in my most recent position, doing only one program, a house tour (in costume, no less), I was told, in no uncertain terms, that no one had time to allow me access to archival material.  At my summer home, in Shenandoah, we are introduced during training about the most recent information on climate change, emerald ash borer concerns, deer populations, and weather and air monitoring, but only an hour was devoted to an introduction of the massive amounts of research material available on a cultural level.  Ok, some would say, it’s a nature park, but it also has a history that lends to the story as a whole. 

            The more I thought about the study, the less surprised I was to hear about the gap between interpretation and cultural resources within the park structure as a whole.  The more recent push to cohesively develop themes, objectives and construct connections for visitors to take away from interpretive programs all seems moot in light of the realization that I might not yet possess all the knowledge I need to do this.  When asked who was going to get this ball rolling and what would prevent this study from collecting dust on a shelf like all the others, the answer given was straightforward … you!  I’m willing to take that challenge, but at what cost. 

            A more in-depth discussion later with some of the panel members spawned a new thought:  who in the NPS was consulted on this study?  It turns out I already knew the answer.  Director Jon Jarvis was obviously a key component, but the others consisted of regional directors and other management level employees.  The problem with that … they don’t interact with the public on a daily basis like I do.  And who am I?  Just another seasonal staff member that shows up on Memorial Day and leaves with end of the autumn splendor.  So, I’m expected to get the ball rolling, but as I’m sure other seasonal NPS employees would agree, my voice is small and in what precarious position am I placing myself if I do push the envelope?  Sure, I might create a movement, spark an epiphany, give rise to a multitude of positive comments from visitors … or, I might find that next year, when the budget of our National Parks is trimmed yet again and another influx of returning veterans is vying for the same position, that I’ll be left out in the cold.  I’m going to push for an increase in more interdisciplinary work at parks and the ability for more communication across lines because my goal is to make the NPS a better and stronger unit.  They are, after all, my parks, too.

Two great afternoon sessions! Had a panel of NPS folks discussing how we can work on opening dialogue and reinterpreting our Indian War sites out West. I am excited to join the conversation tomorrow where we look at getting more cross-training and more inter-disciplinary work in the NPS. I actually broached the subject with Associate Director of Interpretation & Education, Julia Washburn and she encouraged me to be a voice for that change. The other session discussed how we can deal with sites on the brink of closure. Again, the idea of community engagement was brought up together with ideas of how to more readily engage the youth. Partnerships with schools and other community organizations as well as the idea of the re-use of space were some ways in which we all agreed we’ve seen success. Off to the reception now and then some fine Milwaukee fare.

Day 1 of the conference is already turning out to be amazing. The duel combo of NCPH (National Council on Public History) and OAH (Organization of American Historians) makes it hard for me to pick and choose which sessions to attend. I just attended a morning session about sites of conscience and it really got me thinking about how we can use history to engage the public in discussions about current topics. History isn’t always pleasant and remember, our current issues are what we are leaving for the future to study. Communities can and should be involved in the conversation about their past and how we perceive choices made back then versus how we think we would handle them today.

April 21 - April 29 is National Park Week.  Get outside and enjoy YOUR National Parks for free!!  During the next week, entrance fees will be waived at all National Parks (this does not include fees for other tours/activities within the park).